How To Make Metal Detector's Headphone Operation Wireless - Tutorial, page 10

Assembling Digital Wireless Module with Connecting Cable for Semi-Wireless Metal Detector Operation

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The last segment of the transmitter-to-detector connecting cable to be partially encased by the tube harness was its other end with an 1/8-inch-to-1/4-inch adapter. If the cable's 1/8-inch jack is plugged into a straight 1/8-inch-to-1/4-inch adapter, a combined length of the jack/adapter piece would be excessive in length, and this piece would stick out of the metal detector's phone socket too much; thus, increasing chances of damaging either the jack or the phone socket during metal detecting. And a longer free-hanging piece of the cable would be required. To avoid all that, I used a right-angled adapter.

I used the above-described technique to harness the terminal length of the connecting cable. And I made sure the end of the rubber harness was tightly fastened onto the adapter with zip-ties so that the harness would not be pulled off when I grab it to unplug the cable. An 1/8-inch jack/socket joint inside the harness was secured with an additional rubber tube fitted externally over both connectors to prevent accidental disconnection.

Now the cable harness was completed, and the cable was fully protected against moisture, dirt, dust, and would not accidentally get hooked by sticks, roots, digging tools, gear, etc.

To blend the transmitter's protective case into the detector colors and/or make it not stick out as an eye-catching, bright red "what is it?", I sprayed it with All Purpose Matte (Flat, Satin) Black Paint. Do not spray the container with Gloss paint if you do not want the flat lid's surface to flash the reflected sun rays.

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