How To Make Metal Detector Headphone Operation Wireless - Tutorial, page 8

(...CONTINUED from Previous Page)

After an adapter was plugged into the digital transmitter, the adapter's socket was connected to the ransmitter-to-detector connecting cable running outside the enclosure.

Now, even though not much wiring had been done, it was essential to check if everything was working fine. I plugged the connecting cable into my metal detector (your metal detector must be OFF at this moment!), turned on the Sennheiser wireless digital headphone system RS-160 (with batteries fully charged), and then turned my metal detector on. Everything worked fine, and I could proceed further.

It is important to carry out a few intermediate QC (Quality Control) check-ups during any project that involves electronics. This usually saves you lots of time if something has not been done right, and you need to determine at which point of the project a mistake was made.

The wireless transmitter does not have any moving parts inside; however, it is always best to be "on a safe side" - protect it from accidental shocks and bumps against the enclosure's hard interior walls. That may occur when a metal detector is vigorously swang or falls on its side when placed on uneven ground surface, or a search coil hits a hard obstacle. I used a piece of packing foam that would serve as an antishock cushion inside the container. I also cut an opening in the cushion to make some room for the adapter's wire so that it would not be bent under pressure every time the container's lid is closed.

With the lid being closed, the foam pad would press on the digital wireless transmitter and would not let it wobble inside the container with every swing of a search coil. And if an accidental drop of a metal detector happens (like when your mother-in-law with a shovel suddenly appears in front of you), the transmitter would not collide with the container's hard plastic and get cracked.

(CONTINUED on Next Page...)